Production Mistakes New Designers Make and How to Avoid Them
One unverified fabric claim cost me $20,000. One skipped step at a factory cost us an entire department store order. Neither had anything to do with design. Read on to learn about production mistakes new fashion designers make and how to avoid them.
Certain situations often arise for new designers, typically right after their first sample is returned or just before their first production run, when they realize the industry runs on rules no one has written down for them. If you’re feeling confused or overwhelmed, know that this is completely normal. Nearly every designer feels this way at the beginning, and figuring out these unwritten rules is simply part of the journey. You’re not alone—every successful designer started here. Design school teaches you how to design; it seldom tells you what a manufacturer actually wants, what a good material story truly entails, or what happens after the point at which you approve a fabric that you had been enthusiastic about.
This post breaks down the most common and costly production mistakes I've seen over the years. For each one, I’ll share practical steps and specific tools you can use to avoid these pitfalls, so you leave with clear, actionable guidance for your first production run.
I spent more than thirty years on the other side of that table — as a Design Director at Nike Swim, Oakley, Perry Ellis International, Tommy Hilfiger, and DKNY — and I spent time in the rooms where those decisions were made, observed, and at times reversed. The errors listed below aren't purely hypothetical; they are the ones I saw capable individuals make mistakes —the ones I had to discover for myself. They are presented in the order in which you will encounter them: starting with the selection of materials, then agreeing on the costs, followed by sampling, and finally reaching the production floor.
Mistake #1: Taking a material's story at face value
People from all over the world would come to show off new fabrics at our office or at a trade show—for example, a new technical mix, or one marketed as 'recycled', made from bamboo or hemp. Our team would get excited if the fabric felt good to the touch and had an eco-friendly background. We were eager to believe this.
I found out the hard way: a supplier told me their fabric was eco-friendly and had marketing materials to share the fabric story. Since we needed that statement to support the sustainability narrative we were presenting to our buyers, I believed them without asking for further evidence. This was a new initiative in the market- before sustainability was a common initiative. In fact, it wasn't true, and it wasn't until several months later that the full situation came to light; by then, we had already invested $20,000 in the fabric alone, not to mention the cost of sampling and preparing production for every style made from it.
"Recycled" sometimes meant plastic bottles pulled permanently out of the recycling stream, turned into fabric that could never be recycled again. "Eco-friendly" sometimes sat on top of a chemical-intensive process, a petroleum-based blend, or dyes that weren't exactly gentle. The story on the presentation deck and the real story behind the fabric weren't always the same.
The solution is that you now have access to the kinds of tools I didn't have at the time, so use them. Instead of asking for adjectives, ask for documentation. If a fabric is marketed as being recycled, request its Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification. For chemical safety, ask for either OEKO-TEX or bluesign. For organic fibers, get the GOTS certification. Go a step further by asking for the transaction certificate, since it links the certification to your specific order rather than the supplier as a whole. If a supplier can't provide those documents, you will know that you need to pivot,
If you’re a small brand like I once was, not having a big sourcing team means you need to be extra careful. Your customers will trust what’s on your label, and you need to trust your partners. If a supplier dodges your request for documentation, that’s usually my cue to walk away—better to find someone who’s upfront from the start. Sometimes, a smaller mill might not have the big certifications but can still show test reports or process details—always ask, and trust your gut. If you’re unsure about the paperwork, ask other designers or community groups for a second opinion.
Mistake #2: Not agreeing or understanding every cost, and who pays for mistakes, before development starts
This one was mine. I worked with a factory that was great on the technical side of development: communicative, helpful, wholeheartedly involved in getting the product right. We were still in development, before any production contract, and I never asked for a full scope of the fees I'd be charged. Then the fees started appearing: development fees, pattern fees, charges that had never been discussed and weren't part of the package we understood. Factories rarely volunteer a fee schedule. They assume they can bill you later, and that you'll have to pay.
Another version of this one also catches designers just as frequently. I've had a factory produce samples that didn't adhere to our pattern or the tech pack. So who then has to pay for that particular round? If you haven't agreed on the matter in advance, the answer is usually you, even if the error was theirs.
The solution is to get, before work starts, a written cost breakdown that lists all possible charges, such as development, patterns, grading, sampling rounds, and production. When communicating with your factory, come prepared with clear questions and phrases.
For example:
- Can you provide a complete breakdown of all costs involved in development and production?
- Are there any fees besides the ones listed here that I should expect to see on the final invoice?
- Who is responsible for the cost if a sample does not match the approved tech pack?
- If additional sampling or adjustments are needed, will there be extra charges, and how will those be communicated?
- Can we agree in writing that samples not matching the approved tech pack will be remade at the factory's expense?
Securing these details in writing helps set clear expectations on both sides. Make sure the tech pack versions you keep are dated so you can clearly show what was approved. (We will explain how to locate and check a manufacturer before you make a commitment in a future post.)
If you’re running a small company, you won’t have the same pull as a big brand, so getting everything in writing is even more important. If a factory won’t send you a cost sheet up front, I take that as a big warning. There’s no need to settle for vague terms—there are plenty of suppliers who will be straight with you. And if you’re ever unsure, don’t be shy about asking industry friends or designer groups for advice before you commit. It’ll save you a lot of trouble down the line.
Mistake #3: Underestimating what you'll spend before production even starts
Most new designers are surprised by sample costs. A single sample generally costs two to three times as much as the garment would cost in bulk, and sometimes even more. In my time in the industry, three times was the standard.
Here is an example of how it works in practice. Suppose your garment costs $30 per unit when produced in bulk; at three times that amount, each sample comes to $90. If it takes four rounds to get the fit and details right, one style costs $360. For a capsule collection of six styles, you'll have spent over $2,000 on samples before adding the pattern fees, the shipping, or a single unit of production.
Today, 3D avatars and virtual fittings can cut down the number of physical rounds, and that's a real advantage. But they can't tell you how a fabric will actually behave, so you'll still need physical samples. Add duties and tariffs, which have shifted repeatedly over the past two years, and your real cost can look very different from your sample invoice.
Treat sampling as a separate line item in your budget, and assume at least two or three rounds per style. Find out whether you can apply the sample fees to your bulk order. Make sure that the duties currently in force at the time you are given the quote are the ones that are being referred to, not those that applied six months ago.
If you’re starting out, you don’t need to invest in pricey 3D software. I’ve found great freelance 3D designers on Upwork, LinkedIn, and even through fashion Facebook groups. Just search for “CLO3D” or “fashion 3D designer,” check their portfolios for similar work, and when in doubt, ask for a quick test project or a sample file before you go all in. Don’t be afraid to reach out—most freelancers are happy to show what they can do. Also, it’s better to launch with a few well-developed styles than to spread your budget too thin across a bunch of rushed ones.
Mistake #4: Assuming the factory handles the steps you didn't check
Some of the most costly production mistakes happen in stages designers never see. When handling fabric—particularly knits and any type of stretchy fabric—you need to allow it time to 'rest' and relax after it has been unrolled and before it is cut; if you skip that step, the fabric will continue to shrink after the garment has been sewn.
I watched this happen on a large order for a major department store. The factory was running late on delivery, and from what we heard, they skipped the relaxation step to make up time. We had done everything right on our side: pre-production approval, top-of-production approval, all signed off. It still went through. The garments shrank after sewing, the sizing across the entire order came out wrong, and the shipment was rejected. Every piece was correctly sewn from the approved pattern. It still failed.
In the end, the factory absorbed the cost. But that didn't save us. It was too late in the season to remake the order, so we lost it entirely.
Approvals check samples. They don't guarantee what happens on the production floor once the clock is running. And under deadline pressure, factories are exactly when steps get skipped.
The fix: Put shrinkage tolerances in your tech pack, ask your factory how long they relax fabric before cutting, and request shrinkage test results before bulk cutting begins. Treat a late factory as a warning sign, not just a scheduling problem. That's when to ask more questions, not fewer. (More on what manufacturers notice, and what they assume you already know, in an upcoming post.)
If you're running a small brand, you won't have a quality control team, but you can still carry out some checks. Before you accept the delivery, take a random selection of finished items, compare them with your specification sheet, and wash a few. For a larger order, you can hire a third-party garment inspection service to do this check at the factory before any items ship. Search for terms like 'third-party garment inspection services' or consider reputable providers such as Bureau Veritas, Intertek, and SGS if you need trusted names. If you find issues, do not sign off or accept the order until you have discussed your findings with the supplier. Contact the factory right away, share clear photos and specific details about the problems, and ask them to fix or remake any defective items. If possible, refer to your tech pack or original order documents to support your claim. For more serious or widespread problems, negotiate whether the factory will cover the repair costs or arrange for a replacement batch. Always document all your correspondence and agreements in writing. On the first run of 150 units, one missed step doesn't mean the order has been lost—it means your whole launch has been compromised.
Quality checks · What specific steps should I follow when checking finished items before accepting delivery?
Here’s what I do as a designer: I grab a few random pieces and check for issues—loose threads, weird marks, or uneven stitching. I always double-check the measurements against my tech pack (bring a tape measure!). I test every zipper and button, and make sure all the labels and branding look right. If something’s off, I snap a few photos to send to the supplier before I sign off on the order.
Inspect for defects: Check seams, stitching, fastenings, and prints for consistency and quality.
Measure garments: Verify key measurements against your tech pack.
Test functionality: Open/close zippers, fasten buttons, stretch fabrics, and check for colorfastness with a damp cloth.
Review labeling: Ensure care labels and brand tags are attached correctly and are accurate.
Random sampling: If you have a large order, check a random selection rather than every piece.
Document findings: Take photos and notes of any issues to discuss with your supplier before accepting the goods.
Negotiation · How can I negotiate terms with factories if I have little leverage as a new designer?
If you’re new, building a good relationship matters most. I’m always upfront about wanting to grow and stick with one manufacturer long-term, even if my first run is small. I’m flexible on order size and lead times if it helps. If I can’t pay in full up front, I ask if there’s any wiggle room—sometimes there is. Factories remember who’s easy and honest to work with, and that goes a long way. If you ever feel lost, just ask other designers how they handled it; they’ve been there too.
Emphasize potential: Highlight your ambitions, growth plans, and commitment to building a long-term partnership. For example, you might say, "My goal is to grow this brand over the next few seasons and establish a consistent partnership with your team," or "I'm planning to expand my product line, and I'm looking for a factory that I can work with long-term." You could also try, "I want to find a partner to grow with, not just place one order," or "As my business grows, I’d like to put all my orders with a single reliable factory. Could you tell me more about how you support ongoing clients?" Clear statements like these show your seriousness and help the factory see you as an investment, not a one-time client.
Be flexible: Accept smaller minimum order quantities, pay deposits, or agree to reasonable lead times.
Offer testimonials: Promise to recommend the factory if satisfied.
Ask for alternatives: If standard terms aren’t possible, see if there are other options (e.g., phased payments, sample orders).
Stay professional: Even if you’re new, a polite, well-prepared approach can help build respect and rapport.
Resources · Where can I find templates or examples of tech packs and cost sheets?
Over the years, I’ve picked up tech pack templates from sites like Techpacker and Fashionary, or just from a Google search. Facebook groups for designers are goldmines for cost sheet spreadsheets, and blogs like Sewport often share free downloads. Sometimes, online fashion courses include their own templates as a bonus, too.
Tech packs: Learn technical design fundamentals. Get templates and tools to build your styles through an online course here.
Cost sheets: Many apparel business blogs (e.g., The Fashion Starter Kit, Sewport) offer free cost sheet templates.
Online courses: Learn at The Conscious Fashion Design Academy with industry professionals such as Emma Bottemly's Ethical Fashion Sourcing Workshop.
Industry forums, resources and community support: IFD Connect has a community with valuable resources available for our members. Learn more at www.insider.insidefashiondesign.com. Templates such as cost sheets, BOM's and tech packs are available within the platform, along with mentoring to help you navigate along the way.
None of these mistakes are about talent. They're about the parts of the process that don't show up in design school and rarely get talked about outside a factory floor. Two of these were mine, and I made them with a big-brand safety net behind me. You may not have one. That's exactly why getting ahead of them is worth more than almost anything else you can do before your first production run.
Before Your First Production Run: A Checklist
Get certification and transaction certificates for any sustainability claim before you purchase fabric.
Get a written cost breakdown that lists each fee before development starts.
Agree in writing that any samples that don't match the approved tech pack will be remade at the factory's expense.
Make and keep dated versions of each tech pack.
As a separate budget item, it should include two or three rounds for each style.
Confirm your current duties and tariffs when you receive a quotation.
Include shrinkage tolerances in the tech pack, and request shrinkage test results before bulk cutting.
View a late factory as a warning sign, not merely as a scheduling issue.
Before accepting delivery, take a handful of the finished items and check them by measuring and washing.
Take your cost sheets, tech pack questions, and factory quotes to IFD Connect so people with experience on both sides of the table can check your ideas.
Your Fashion Concierge
Your Fashion Concierge is bespoke, one-on-one guidance for fashion designers, founders, and brand teams — design and development, pre-production, tech packs, sourcing and manufacturing, and brand and business strategy, under one roof. Reach out at design@insidefashiondesiegn.net for inquiries
Happy Conscious Creating!
Britta Cabanos
Founder & CEO, Inside Fashion Design
Publishing notes (not part of the post)
Comments