How To Reshape Fashion Design; Inspiration from Copenhagen Fashion Week

Kettel Atelier

As the fashion world turns its eyes to Copenhagen this August, two standout designers—Stem and Bonnetje—are setting new standards for what sustainable, ethically conscious clothing can be. Here's an in-depth look at what makes these brands leaders in fashion's green revolution.

About the Show:

The CPHFW Ethos: Sustainability and Creativity

At the heart of Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) lies a vibrant blend of innovation and responsibility. This dynamic event not only showcases cutting-edge fashion but also champions sustainable practices, making it a beacon for the future of the industry. Let's dive into how CPHFW embodies the perfect fusion of sustainability and creativity!

CPHFW doesn't just keep pace with global trends—it sets them, particularly around sustainability. Every brand participating in the official lineup must meet rigorous sustainability requirements (with further enhancements piloted this season), reinforcing Copenhagen's leadership in the movement toward responsible and transparent fashion[2][3]. The event's programming reflects a sharp focus on creative experimentation, responsible production, and the celebration of craft.

This August's Lineup

This season's official program (August 4–8, 2025) features 45 carefully curated brands[1][2][3][4]. The roster blends respected Nordic names, international players, and the next wave of designer talent[5]. It's a dynamic mix that reflects the collaborative spirit Copenhagen is known for.

Cecilie Bahnsen Dress

A significant highlight of this season is the introduction of a dedicated 'Guest Slot.' The return of Cecilie Bahnsen, renowned for her romantic, sculptural silhouettes, to the Copenhagen runway after several seasons in Paris is a moment that is sure to be met with great anticipation. Meanwhile, the CPHFW NEWTALENT program continues to nurture innovative designers at the start of their careers, with Anne Sofie Madsen, Berner Kühl, Bonnetje, and Stem taking center stage this year.

Spotlight on Stem and Bonnetje

Stem distinguishes itself as a true “One to Watch.” Helmed by weaver and textile designer Sarah Brunnhuber, Stem is pioneering zero-waste garment construction by eliminating waste at every step of the production process. The brand’s latest collection showcases inventive handcraft and sustainability, utilizing only certified and recycled fibers. Stem’s presentations often involve live demonstrations where the team pulls, knots, and sculpts fabrics in real time—a testament to Danish craft’s enduring relevance.

Bonnetje Jacket

Bonnetje, meanwhile, brings a renegade spirit to the lineup. Created by Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen, Bonnetje is rooted in radical upcycling. The brand deconstructs vintage men’s suits and reimagines them into clever, poignant silhouettes that speak business, femininity, and sustainability. Their Copenhagen presentations are experiential and conceptual, blending playful design with a sharp critique of fashion’s norms.

Who Else Should You Watch This Season?

Beyond Stem and Bonnetje, several designers are turning heads:

• Cecilie Bahnsen – Celebrated for her delicate, sculptural garments, Bahnsen’s return as the “Guest Slot” designer is sure to be a season-defining moment.

• Anne Sofie Madsen – Joining the CPHFW NEWTALENT program, she’s recognized for her structural, avant-garde designs that routinely challenge industry conventions.

• Berner Kühl – Known for refined tailoring and modern minimalism, Berner Kühl is making waves as a leading new Nordic voice.

• IAMISIGO – Winner of the 2025 Zalando Visionary Award, IAMISIGO is drawing attention for its conceptual, boundary-pushing work, merging African heritage with contemporary design.

• Henrik Vibskov, Marimekko, Baum und Pferdgarten, OpéraSport, Rotate, Han Kjøbenhavn – These household names are all set to present, bringing bold perspectives and innovative approaches to textile and design.

  

  OpéraSport

  
  

Why Pay Attention?

CPHFW’s impact continues to expand, attracting global press, buyers, and fashion lovers who look to Copenhagen for a glimpse of what’s next—both for style and sustainability. Whether you’re here for radical new talent or to see how the classics are reimagined, this season’s lineup exemplifies why Copenhagen Fashion Week is the industry’s must-watch event this summer.

Ready to meet Stem and Bonnetje? Read on for an in-depth look at their cutting-edge approaches and collections.

Stem White Dress

Stem: The Art of Zero-Waste Innovation

Brand Ethos:

Stem isn't just about style—it's a manifesto for a waste-free future. At the heart of Stem's philosophy is a commitment to zero waste, achieved through meticulously engineered design processes that rethink how garments are created from thread to final form.

Weaving Loom of Stems

Design Process & Methods:

• Zero-Waste Weaving: Instead of cutting fabric from large bolts (a process that often leaves behind significant waste), Stem's pieces are woven directly into shape on the loom. This means almost no scraps—each garment emerges nearly finished, needing only minimal sewing or finishing touches.

• Transparency and Responsibility: From sourcing to energy usage, Stem is open about every aspect of their production. They publicly share supplier lists, detailing how each partner aligns with eco-responsible standards.

  

• Slow Fashion in Action: By focusing on carefully curated collections and limited releases, Stem eschews the disposable mentality of fast fashion, instead making clothes designed to last—both in quality and in timeless design approaches.

  
  

Why It Matters:

Stem's innovative process proves that beautiful, avant-garde fashion doesn't have to come at the earth's expense. Their approach not only reduces material waste but also challenges others in the industry to think smarter, not just faster.

Bonnetje

Bonnetje: Tailoring Tomorrow with Upcycling Genius

Brand Ethos:

Bonnetje's collections are living proof that discarded materials can find a striking—and stylish—second life. Defiant against wastefulness, this brand pioneers upcycled tailoring, reconceptualizing menswear and ready-to-wear with inventive flair.

Design Process & Methods:

• Upcycled Tailoring: Bonnetje sources surplus, deadstock, and repurposed textiles that would otherwise be landfill-bound. These materials are meticulously recut, restyled, and reimagined into unique, high-impact statement pieces.

  
  

• Patchwork Storytelling: Bonnetje's garments are not just clothes; they are stories waiting to be told. Each piece, crafted from what was once an unused shirt or outdated suit, is a unique patchwork of modern couture, making every garment a one-of-a-kind narrative. 

  
  

• Ethical Production: Their supply chain is as transparent as their design: most production is local, labor practices are scrutinized, and sustainability sits at the core of every business decision.

  
  

Why It Matters:

By highlighting and reusing what other brands discard, Bonnetje not only reduces environmental impact but also opens new creative possibilities. Their collections remind us that fashion's future lies in reinventing the old just as much as inventing the new.

What You Can Learn from These Pioneers

Both Stem and Bonnetje are masters in sustainability—proving that ethical practices and high fashion can (and must) go hand in hand. Their work demonstrates:

• Sustainable fashion isn't a compromise but an opportunity for innovation.

• Transparency and storytelling are as crucial as aesthetics in building a forward-thinking brand.

• The quest for zero waste and upcycling can spark creativity rather than limit it.

  
  

This August, as you watch the runways of Copenhagen, keep an eye on these vanguards. Their processes and philosophies are pointers towards a fashion industry that truly respects both creativity and the planet.

Stem Dress

How Small Designers Can Apply Copenhagen's Innovations

Copenhagen Fashion Week is more than a showcase—it's a source of creative business inspiration for designers at any stage. If you're a small brand or independent designer, here's how you can harness ideas from Copenhagen's most forward-thinking names, even on a budget:

Bennetje Cut out suit dress

1. Embrace Sustainability—Start Small

• Zero-Waste Patterns: Designers like Stem demonstrate that creative patternmaking can reduce or eliminate textile waste. By experimenting with 'zero-waste' design, you not only contribute to a greener planet but also create unique pieces that resonate with conscious consumers. 

• Upcycling & Reworking: Bonnetje's signature style comes from transforming old men's suits into new garments. By scouring thrift stores/markets for vintage finds and practicing your reconstruction skills, you can create a unique style without breaking the bank. 

• Material Choices: While certifications and high-end recycled materials can be costly, start by sourcing deadstock fabrics, offcuts, or even old household textiles and linens. Highlight their story as part of your brand narrative.

  
  

2. Budget-Friendly Sustainable Techniques

• Handcraft and Slow Production: Focus on a few high-quality, thoughtfully made pieces instead of mass production. Consider pre-orders or made-to-order to avoid overstock.

• Natural Dyeing: Experiment with kitchen scraps (like onion skins or avocado pits) to create natural dyes and unique fabric finishes.

• Community Collaboration: Partner with local makers or artists for unique, collaborative collections or offer mending/repair services as part of your brand value.

  
  

3. Creative Exposure Without a Big PR Budget

• Showcase Your Process: Inspired by CPHFW presentations, document your creative process (patternmaking, upcycling, handcrafting) through Instagram Stories, TikTok, or YouTube. Sharing your behind-the-scenes journey not only engages your audience but also builds authenticity and trust in your brand.

• Collaborate and Pop-Up: Reach out to other small brands for joint events or pop-up shops—pooling resources means you reach each other's audiences and can split costs.

• Apply to Local (or Digital) Fashion Weeks: Many cities have open-call events or design competitions. Consider joining digital showcases or curated online markets that are far less expensive than major runways.

• Leverage Media and Awards: Look for sustainability or new talent awards similar to CPHFW's NEWTALENT or Zalando Visionary Award, which can give you press and network connections, even if you're not in Copenhagen.

  
  

4. Let Your Mission Shine

• Transparent Storytelling: Even if you're taking small steps, share them openly—customers and buyers are interested in the "why" behind your choices as much as the finished product.

• Build Community: Engage with fellow independent designers online, share tips, challenges, and successes, and even trade materials or skills to push everyone forward together. Remember, you're not alone in this journey. The fashion community is here to support and uplift each other. (check out

• Pitch Unique Stories: Reach out to bloggers, micro-influencers, or local journalists about your brand's unique story. Focus on what makes your approach (and your roadblocks) different.

Bonnetje Pant

Incorporating even one or two of these ideas can help your small brand stand out, build deeper connections with customers, and contribute to a more innovative, resourceful, and sustainable fashion community—right in line with the Copenhagen ethos! This potential for growth and success should fill you with hope and optimism for the future of your brand.

Sources:

1. Stem – Copenhagen Fashion Week official profile and sustainability focushttps://copenhagenfashionweek.com/brand/stem

2. Copenhagen Fashion Week Announces SS26 Brand Line Up (includes Bonnetje and other NEWTALENT designers)https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/article/copenhagen-fashion-week-announces-ss26-brand-line-up

3. "One to Watch" Exhibition including Bonnetje at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS25 – Moddity Events calendarhttps://www.moddity.com/fashion_week/events/112

4. Instagram snapshot on Stem’s experimental zero-waste designs at Copenhagen Fashion Week https://www.instagram.com/p/DMfBhY6qsQU/

5. Copenhagen Fashion Week Official Website (general schedule, brands, livestreams)https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/brands

   
   

   Designer Profiles & Show Rundowns

   For designer histories, show highlights, and deep dives:

   • Cecilie Bahnsen: https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/designers/cecilie-bahnsen

   • Anne Sofie Madsen: https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/designers/anne-sofie-madsen

   • Berner Kühl: https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/designers/berner-kuhl

   • Stem: https://www.stem.page/

   • Bonnetje: https://bonnetje-works.com/

   • Vogue Business: https://www.voguebusiness.com/tags/copenhagen-fashion-week

   • Fashionista: https://fashionista.com/tag/copenhagen-fashion-week

   • CPHFW Official Instagram: For real-time updates and behind-the-scenes content:https://www.instagram.com/cphfw/

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     Bennetje Skirt